ARTS & CULTURE | STYLE
Written by Sanskruti Banerjee (she/her) | @san._.banerjee | Contributing Writer
Interview with Masala Bazaar | @masalabazaarco | masalabazaar.co
Illustrated by Sahana Vijayaraghavan (she/her) | @_sahana.shavij_ | Contributing Illustrator
Masala Bazaar is a South Asian owned business bringing a piece of desi culture home to New Zealand. They are known to authentically embrace values of supporting local artisans and having a community based initiative concept. They describe themselves as providing an authentic blend of South Asian treasures. Recently, I had the privilege of visiting Masala Bazaar in Parnell, talking to founder Haya Fatima Khan about fashion and the journey of creating this flourishing business. Her beautiful insights showcase that often we need to become the representation in society that our younger selves have desired.
What is Masala Bazaar’s approach to ethical fashion? For South Asian people especially, why does ethical fashion matter?
In terms of ethical fashion, Haya states that many South Asians within NZ end up getting a retail role as their first job.It is commonplace for workplaces in NZ to be mismanaged, especially in the retail sector. So you can imagine, if the payment and work culture is so bad in a foreign country like Aotearoa (think 12 hours being the “acting manager” on the second week at work with no toilet breaks or food), imagine how bad it is back home in countries such as Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. Unfair labour and lack of adequate wages aside, Haya sheds light on the co-existing issues prevalent in South Asian countries - one example being the concept of ‘house-help.’ Often the children of these house helpers are lacking education, proper clothing or resources to live their lives to certain equitable standards. Haya says this is why “worker’s rights is not just about ethical fashion, it is about HOW we hire different people in different fields too.”
Haya says that often South Asians have tendencies to devalue their own fabrics while putting non-ethical items on a pedestal. The work and sheer magnitude of craftsmanship that goes into South Asian embroidery and pieces is too much to be undermined in this way. Gucci often charges thousands of dollars for items when the price of making them is only around $50. This, in comparison to a hand-made jhumka (South Asian earring) that takes weeks to make but is sold at a very cheap price showcases the stark issue of South Asian heritage products being devalued. Haya pinpoints how certain things become “trends” and consequently due to the impact of colonisation, items are rebranded, remarketed and sold as something new. Something westernised. Popular examples include how sari fabrics are being marketed as “Scandinavian scarves” or jhumkas are being sold as “ethnic earrings.” The South Asian fabric market in particular has fabrics being sold for cheap prices because it’s what is quick and easy…hence the term fast fashion. Masala Bazaar, on the other hand, is all about authenticity. “We are not trying to FIT into the trend” Haya states. Masala Bazaar aspires to educate people and raise awareness about healthy ways to consume. They are ensuring people have a curated wardrobe of pieces that will last. They aren’t afraid of being “too ethnic” and don’t phase out best sellers - but rather embrace the timeless beauty of South Asian heritage garments. A lot of people accuse South Asians reclaiming their heritage of being “too ethnic” when they are simply being unashamed and proud of their cultural identities through clothing, food, dance and more. All of Masala Bazaar’s fashion pieces are not only ethically sourced, but made of high quality fabric that will last buyers many years after they make the purchase.
How did you find the transition from law to ethical entrepreneurship?
Haya said that a lot of Kiwi’s are so accustomed to “tall-poppy syndrome”, rather than being proud of their achievements. Haya is someone steadfast in her goals and proud of her heritage and home. She said law is a degree that truly prepares you for everything and her involvement in the South Asian Law Society (SALSA) showed her how scared brown people were of simply “being desi.” It was not normalised in a predominantly Pakeha degree to see ethnic communities, it was also commonplace to apply to jobs with more Westernised names. People would call Haya “too desi”, not realising she was paving a path for future desi people to feel less distanced from their own communities. “How are you too desi if the spaces haven’t even been created yet?” Haya says she wants to “create empowerment to add more voices to the narrative.” The concept of South Asians trying to be more westernised to fit in is an age-old tale, one that starts from early childhood when they are bullied for being different. Lawyers often deal with complex intersectional issues surrounding foreign affairs and politics. On this note, Haya says; “How can you prepare them to talk about Kashmir, if they don’t even know what a jalebi is?”
How does Masala Bazaar bring a piece of South Asia to New Zealand? How has this community building journey been for you?
Masala Bazaar embraces bringing a piece of South Asia home to Aotearoa by embracing the concept of a “community based initiative.” Haya says a lot of Westerners unfortunately do not understand this concept. In contrast, South Asian communities and countries have rich roots which have thrived off collective based energies and kaupapa for centuries. Traditionally in the shops and markets (bazaars) back home there is no ideal of individual sales. “Our ancestors didn’t have KPI’s” It is that decolonised mindset that the bazaar has by incorporating a collective business model, where each store boosts the others’ success. For Masala Bazaar, this looked like getting a foot (very successfully) through the door during NZ’s peak economic recession. Masala Bazaar supports many local artisans, creatives and designers by displaying and selling their products and clothing in store. True to the nature of the bazaar, you can find multifaceted creations such as candles, clothes and scents from various creators, all contributing to Masala Bazaar as a whole.
Any exciting things we can look forward to in the future of Masala Bazaar?
Masala Bazaar is soon to introduce a trade-in system where people can bring used and worn clothes to put back up on the racks at more affordable prices for new buyers. The person returning the item will also get a discount on their next or new purchase. This system not only creates affordability but there’s no pressure that you HAVE to love a piece forever. Not vibing with an item? Simply, trade it in! Haya says this not only allows people to be effortlessly sustainable by not contributing to waste but lets people look forward to new items of clothing. Haya said it’s about the trust in Masala Bazaar’s products lasting in terms of quality. She mentions that desi people often wear individual handmade outfits multiple times but they are unique to everyone around them. In contrast, Westerners are more used to wearing trends as they come and go.
“Just because it is BOLD and ETHNIC, does not mean it is NOT desirable.” Haya is confident that Masala Bazaar is part of a much larger movement of decolonisation, helping South Asians feel beautiful and confident in their own skin. It is so important we shop from home and the bazaar’s rather than unsustainable easy access sites such as SHEIN.
BONUS - What is your favourite South Asian clothing item?
“Salwar Kameez because they are THE COMFIEST!”
All this being said, Haya and Masala Bazaar are a shining example of trailblazers in the South Asian sphere. Through fashion, heritage and community Masala Bazaar aspires to decolonise, reclaim lost roots and encourage people to feel comfortable in their own skin, the skin back from home.
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