KILTER Uncovered
ARTS & CULTURE | STYLE
Written by Amani Sadique (she/her) | @amani.sadique | Contributing Writer
Consumed by darkness and covered in blood emerges first-year AUT fashion student, Abiel Biri, founder of the newly launched fashion label: Kilter. Inspired by the culture of Vivienne Westwood, Biri explores what the essence of punk is to him, physicalising them through the garments released in his first collection drop. With gory promotional imagery and mysterious symbols, we hear the backstory and more, from the creator himself.
How did you first develop an interest in fashion?
For my first year of uni, I took urban planning, but I quickly found it had creative barriers. After that, I found myself immersed in wearable arts as it’s another way to see your ideas come to life on more than just a piece of paper and through this, I was introduced to the world of fashion. From there, I decided to change my course and study fashion full-time. I’ve never looked back.
When it comes to everything else in the world that's creative, there are other laws, restrictions, policies, economics, and subjects that you have to learn. But when it comes to fashion, you are taught all the fashion basics but in regards to concepts, it’s all up to you. There's no barrier when it comes to clothes. Everything rides on you, the designer. Especially how you market and communicate your ideas.
Are there any fashion subcultures or individuals that inform your day-to-day style?
I would say A$AP Rocky because he doesn't dress the same as everyone else. His brand AWGE is also inspiring to me. In particular, when he demonstrated politics and stereotypes in his work for the American Sabotage men's spring/summer 2025 collection. It’s more how he interpreted clothes into something that's connected to topics of discussion in our day-to-day lives that I truly connect to. I'd also say Virgil Abloh, just because of the life lessons and aspects he had on making. He said, “I could design the candle, or I could design the room that surrounds it.” In that way, it insulates the candle.
Vivienne Westwood has always been a point of reference in my practice. That's more going into the punk theme of her individualism and how she carried herself through that generation. I have a couple of books on Vivienne Westwood that I read often.
What I find inspiring is that she brought modern punk and new silhouettes into the high fashion industry. She didn't just limit herself to punk subcultures. Vivienne Westwood is functional and accessible as a brand and you don’t see it limiting someone as an individual.
What was your experience with fashion before Kilter?
Prior to Kilter, I was a part of clothing brand, Pambi, which is an African-inspired brand that is run by Kid Rey and Thando now. I moved from that as being able to put my voice on clothing and not limit or restrict myself to one category is the most important thing to me right now. I love being able to prioritise individualism - without barriers and hurdles of going through other people. With Kilter, I can just do my ideas and take whichever path I want to go along. Despite enjoying self-driven making, I often ask my friends for constructive criticism. It’s so essential to get another point of insight, providing an alternate perspective to what I can't see. This system is what I currently prefer.
The way I see it, the more minds on one thing, the harder it is to form an idea because we can’t always include everyone’s concept. That's why it’s sometimes better to branch off and expand your horizons. Lay out all that you have in your head, and see where you go from there.
Describe what the essence of Kilter is in three words
Kilter means everything.
The persona of Kilter is, it's out of the ordinary. Kilter means harmony or balance. So, when something's “out of kilter”, it's imbalance. Through looking at imperfections, people can find perfection.
What is the inspiration behind the marketing of your first drop?
‘A new chapter.’
The campaign shoot depicts someone who is running away and (spoilers ahead) they die. The video concept represented me getting rid of my old self and creating something new. We shot it in one hour while in the woods with my friend - an awesome videographer named Tung who lives in Australia. There's so much symbolism in the video. The video visuals are very dark, both in a surface-level way and metaphorically. The death of the person in the video reflects what I see as the killing of my old self. After this, something new is created - that will be represented in the second drop. It’s just an introduction to what is coming.
How do the clothes in the first drop reflect this ‘new chapter’?
There are many physical elements in my clothes which connect to the thematic points of my promo video. In the drop, I have a T-shirt design which has an enzyme wash that creates this faded, imperfect effect. I want the garments to have that connection to bacteria, humans - just living organisms. We are alive - I want Kilter to be as well.
I also incorporated water-based ink screen prints, so that the mark is embedded into the garment. That way, it feels like the essence of Kilter is truly inside the garment. There are also symbols, such as the letter “K” and a hand. The hand connects to human DNA and the “K” represents Kilter. Together they connect and highlight how I want my brand to be one with skin. To represent harmony and balance because humans are not perfect at the end of the day.
I’m also in the process of creating black pants. They will contain components such as flare, but still act functional and not too wide. I chose this particular style of pants as I wanted it to be uniform. I wanted it to be something that you can wear day-to-day and not feel like it'll clash with any outfit, and black is always a colour that won’t go wrong with any outfit. Even though people may coincide it with being ‘basic’, in my opinion, it's still one of the best colours to use. I'm also looking at making distressed denim jackets. Which will be coming soon, once all my samples come in.
How do you envision a classic Kilter customer?
Someone willing to grow as an individual or someone who is open-minded. Because I would like to have a community of people who are inspired and want to wear their clothes because they feel like it's a part of them. I don't want it to be a brand like ASOS or Uniqlo. No shade. Amazing blanks, but I want Kilter to be more than a name and have bespoke pieces.
What made you go with a punk aesthetic?
Because I just started reverting to wearing black clothes. Not because of the whole scene or following some particular aesthetic. People will try fit you into a box, like “Ok, you're opium.” No, I’m not… I just like the colour black. It's simple and has so much functionality as it can be used in so many ways. Black makes me feel comfortable. This is why most of the clothes will be black in the first drop because that's what I'm most comfortable with at the moment. But since I'm growing as a person, I will learn to use colours and expand the colour palette of Kilter.
How do you find the balance of being a full-time student whilst simultaneously running a business?
My classes coincide with what I want to do, especially everything I learn in fashion. For example making patterns, blanks, or researching about artists or works such as assemblage. It's also helping me learn the ins and outs and all the various ways that you may use symbolism, surrealism, and other techniques within what you make.
So really, it doesn't feel like a job. It's more of a passion. I don't feel like any effort or energy is taken out of me because I enjoy doing what I do.
What are the future goals for Kilter?
I have made great friends across the world and friends who are willing to wear it, not because they want to support it but because they like Kilter.
I'll see Kilter more widespread on a global scale. I'm also planning to move overseas because the creative scene in New Zealand is dying down in my eyes. However, there is a new Fashion Week collective called Āhua Aotearoa, which is a breath of oxygen to revive the industry. Overall, I’d like to experience the world and broaden my horizons because I don't want to be in the same environment and have the same ideas. Change is essential.
There will be another chapter to Kilter, my second drop, titled ‘Purity’. You'll see more light insinuating a brighter palette. Think dresses, loose garments and more neutral tones rather than such a dark atmosphere on the clothing.
I'm hoping to not create a label, but create a group of creatives who will be in different areas such as music production, and art. Just so that Kilter is more than just clothing. It's a way of life, anything is possible.
… You can find Kilter, or expect Kilter to find you.
Follow Kilter on Instagram: @madebykilter
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